A Lab on Fire: Inside the Niche Fragrance Brand Sparked by Carlos Kusubayashi
A Lab on Fire is a niche fragrance brand that has captivated perfume lovers since its founding in 2011. Known for minimalist design, avant-garde creations, and limited-production perfumes, the brand blends artistry with accessibility. Created by Carlos Kusubayashi, A Lab on Fire has collaborated with some of the most respected perfumers in the industry. This article explores its story, signature scents, market reception, and why it continues to intrigue fragrance connoisseurs worldwide.
The Origin of A Lab on Fire
A Lab on Fire was founded in 2011 by Carlos Kusubayashi, a Brazilian-born creative raised in Japan who later moved to Paris and New York. His background in craftsmanship and design shaped a unique vision of perfumery.
Unlike mainstream fragrance houses built on heavy marketing, Kusubayashi wanted a laboratory of scent—a place where the perfume itself would be the focus. His debut release, L’Anonyme ou OP-1475-A, created by Olivier Polge (now Chanel’s in-house perfumer), immediately set the brand apart: minimalist, enigmatic, and modern.
What Makes This Niche Fragrance Brand Unique
Limited-Production Scents
A Lab on Fire is known for limited-production perfumes. Each scent is produced in small batches, ensuring exclusivity and artisanal quality. This appeals to collectors and enthusiasts who prefer perfumes that feel rare and personal.
Collaborations with Master Perfumers
The brand has partnered with some of the greatest noses in perfumery, including:
- Olivier Polge (L’Anonyme ou OP-1475-A)
- Dominique Ropion (What We Do in Paris Is Secret)
- Thierry Wasser (now Guerlain’s in-house perfumer)
- Carlos Benaïm, Sophia Grojsman, Bruno Jovanovic, and others
These collaborations allow world-class perfumers to experiment without commercial constraints, leading to bold and memorable creations.
Minimalist Packaging and Aesthetic
The packaging reflects the brand’s philosophy: industrial chic and understated elegance. Plain white boxes, minimal typography, and simple glass bottles emphasize substance over flash, letting the fragrances speak for themselves.
Signature Fragrances of A Lab on Fire
Over more than a decade, A Lab on Fire has built a catalog of unique and memorable perfumes.
- L’Anonyme ou OP-1475-A (2011)
- Perfumer: Olivier Polge
- Notes: Bergamot, geranium, woods, amber, suede
- A clean, mysterious fragrance that resists easy classification.
- What We Do in Paris Is Secret (2012)
- Perfumer: Dominique Ropion
- Notes: Bergamot, honey, lychee, Turkish rose, heliotrope, tonka, vanilla
- Sensual and romantic, inspired by hidden Parisian nights.
- Liquidnight (2012)
- Perfumer: Carlos Benaïm
- Notes: Bergamot, lime, jasmine, nutmeg, cedarwood, amber, musk
- Captures the electricity of New York after dark.
- Paris*LA (2014)
- Perfumer: Laurent Le Guernec
- Notes: Coca-Cola accord, lime, ginger, coriander, neroli, macaron
- A playful blend of American pop culture and French sophistication.
- Sweet Dreams 2003, Rose Rebelle Respawn, Almost Transparent Blue
- Experimental compositions that challenge conventional olfactory boundaries.
Many of these perfumes have become cult favorites, often selling out quickly due to limited production.
Global Presence and Availability
Though based in New York, A Lab on Fire has a global audience. Its distribution is selective, available mainly through niche retailers such as:
- Luckyscent (U.S.)
- Scentrique
- Perfume.com and FragranceX
- FragranceNet
- Select European boutiques
Prices generally range from $80–150 for 50ml bottles, making them relatively affordable compared to many niche fragrance brands.
Why Fragrance Enthusiasts Admire A Lab on Fire
Fragrance communities value the brand for several reasons:
- Authenticity: No celebrity tie-ins or exaggerated marketing—only the perfume itself.
- Exclusivity: Limited runs encourage exploration and collecting.
- Artistic Freedom: Each fragrance reflects the creativity of its perfumer.
- Balance of artistry and accessibility: High-quality compositions at moderate niche pricing.
User Reviews & Reception
Diverse Reactions to Key Scents
One of the most talked-about fragrances, What We Do in Paris Is Secret, has sparked mixed reactions:
- A critical review on Kafkaesque Blog noted: “What We Do in Paris is secret… emphasizes two main notes… full-blown powder, bursting on the scene, feeling girly and light… a pleasant enough scent that skews extremely feminine and gourmand in nature, but is also extremely simple with limited range and a total lack of depth.”
(kafkaesqueblog.com) - In contrast, Now Smell This described it as: “An easy to wear and easy to love sweet gourmand… honeyed citrus… sheer rose… almond… vanilla… all wrapped in an airy heliotrope marshmallow cream… creamy and delicious, but not too heavy.”
(nstperfume.com)
Community and Retailer Perspectives
- Luckyscent describes the brand as: “A limited-production fragrance house, a brilliant collaboration with the brightest talents in the industry… Each package design emphasizes simplicity and industrial chic.”
(luckyscent.com) - Surrender to Chance, a sample retailer, highlights: “A Lab on Fire niche perfume is limited in production, using some of the finest perfumers in the world as well as the best raw materials. Their inspiration is finding what surprises you in unexpected places, to let a thing remain cloaked in mystery.”
(surrendertochance.com)
Reception Summary
| Perspective | Takeaway |
|---|---|
| Fragrance Bloggers | Mixed views—some praise its comfort and wearability, others see it as overly sweet or simple. |
| Niche Retailers | Highlight creativity, industrial-chic presentation, and artisanal quality. |
| Fragrance Enthusiasts | Appreciate its authenticity, exclusivity, and artistic collaborations. |
Buying Tips for A Lab on Fire Perfumes
- Start with iconic releases – What We Do in Paris Is Secret or L’Anonyme are great introductions.
- Sample before committing – Discovery sets are available through retailers like Luckyscent.
- Stay alert for limited runs – Some editions sell out quickly and become hard to find.
- Match your style to the perfumer – Each fragrance reflects its creator’s unique signature.
A Lab on Fire represents a unique balance of artistry, exclusivity, and wearability. As a niche fragrance brand founded by Carlos Kusubayashi, it has given some of the world’s most renowned perfumers the freedom to explore new olfactory territories. Its limited-production scents and minimalist aesthetic resonate with fragrance lovers seeking authenticity and originality.
For those who want perfumes that feel intimate, conceptual, and collectible, A Lab on Fire offers a compelling journey into the avant-garde side of perfumery.
